Showing posts with label travel blog. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel blog. Show all posts

8/8/17

English Speaking Spots in Paris, Part 3: Honor Cafe

Honor Cafe 



Tucked away in a courtyard across from President Macron's abode you will come upon Honor Cafe.  Their signs proclaim that they prepare "the coffee Paris should be known for" and I cannot disagree.  The location is convenient, if you're busy shopping in Madeleine or visiting Le Jardin des Tuileries.  Friendly, skilled baristas will greet you in English or French to take your order.  You have the option to take yours "to go," but I suggest taking a minute to sit in the architecturally interesting shop or out in the cobbled courtyard.

Alice Maggio of Seek and Pursue
I had the pleasure of accompanying friend and travel blogger, Alice Maggio for her first experience at Honor Cafe.  Alice was impressed by the architecture of the small nook, and remembers being warmed by her steamy cappuccino on a drizzly Paris afternoon. "The alley way status of this cafe is to its advantage because of the fact that it is surrounded by a major segment of Paris' fashion scene. The store signs in the neighborhood were almost blinding while the chalk sign displaying Honor's coffee was humbler and more down-to-earth.  It's far more comforting than the sleek and sanitized Chanel shop that shares its postal code. "





Honor Cafe is an easy place to find iced coffee in the summertime and enjoy a slice of banana bread if you have a hankering.  The shop even offers flasks of coffee stamped with their name for fanatics.  It's a comfort to the weary traveler or expat looking for a go-to coffee shop and a fun stop for residents to chat with the barista while sipping a freshly brewed cup.  



Details

Eats range from 3-12

Drinks from 3-6

Address:
54 Rue du Faubourg St Honore, Paris 75008


Metro: Madeleine, Concorde

Hours:
Monday-Friday: 9h-18h
Saturday: 10h-18h
Sunday: CLOSED



5/1/17

Cheap Chocolate in Paris

With a chocolaterie on each corner, you might wonder why there is even a necessity for cheap chocolate in Paris.  Does anyone even buy those colorfully wrapped bars in the supermarket? In a country where children consume an average of 11.9 grams and adults 5.7 grams of chocolate per day, it is not exactly surprising that someone is buying the cheaper stuff.  In addition to price, when stockpiling chocolate it is important to remember the shelf-life.  When you buy boutique chocolates, it will be necessary to consume them within two or three weeks so that nothing spoils.  But with "cheap" bar chocolate, this worry disappears.  Hurray!  Your stash is safe from mold!

I have taken it upon myself to test and compare the chocolate and confections commonly found in French grocery stores for you, my dear readers.  Enjoy this guide to 4€ well spent.  Recognition must be given to my boyfriend who has sacrificially helped me try many different chocolates over the last few months.  

Lindt

Before beginning this journey, I was not aware of the various "collections" available from Lindt.  There are different distinctions written on the packaging like: EXCELLENCE, LINDOR, CREATION, CONNAISSEURS, RECETTE ORIGINALE, LES GRANDES.

The least expensive and least interesting lines are the "original recipe," "Lindor," and "excellence."  These are the lines you will find most often in the states.  They are the traditional, plain dark and milk chocolates with infusions or small twists.  

The "Creation" line are thin bars of dark or milk chocolate with soft fillings that range from typical praline to whipped fruit fondant.  They are made in indented molds for easy breaking and each tab is a generous bite.   

Naturally, the best line is the most expensive line: "Connaisseurs."  These are thicker bars with no lines to indicate where one should break or how much is a serving.  Obviously, this is fantastic, because it is pretty clear to me that one bar is one serving, right?  The bars in this line are filled with thick pralines and caramel fondants.  You cannot go wrong here.  


Rocher Noir is a nod to a classic French confection.  Rocher means "rock" or "boulder" and the mixture of almonds with chocolate piled into a mound is often referred to this way.  This particular member of the Creation line comes in dark or milk chocolate and deserves a good report as a yummy bar for the price.   



Coulis de Chocolat was a bit of a disappointment.  The filling was more sugary than chocolatey and the texture was off.  


Passion Frappée is supposed to be served straight out of the refrigerator, which I did not realize before tasting it.  It was unpleasant and tasted fake.  After storing in the refrigerator it was slightly more palatable, but mostly because the chill took some of the flavor away.  

Praliné Façon À L'Ancienne was pretty delicious and full of hazelnut flavor.  It is part of the connaisseurs line and I am fairly certain that this flavor is unavailable in the states.


Passionnment Fondant Noir is pretty similar to some Lindt varieties you can find in the USA.  It is a good staple.  This one is not overdone and you will not be disappointed, especially if you eat it slightly above room temperature.


Délice Pistache was not particularly délice-ious.  As is usually the complaint of my resident pistachio specialist, the filling tasted more of almond than of pistachio and green food coloring must have been used.


Praliné Feuilleté is in the running for my favorite bar in the "Creation" collection.  The texture is perfectly crispy and the nutty praline really stands up to the chocolate.



Noir Intense is the typical dark bar you can find anywhere and I used it for baking because I am a snob and cannot say that I always enjoy eating this one on its own.  If I want a piece of dark chocolate by itself, I will splurge for the Valrhona or Cacao Barry.


Opéra is inspired by the impressive, multi-layered French cake made with coffee.  The bar was a nice homage to the pastry, but still does not measure up to anything in the "connaisseurs" collection.

Truffe Craquante was crunchy, as advertised.  However, perhaps it was a little too heavy on the orange flavor.


Praliné Feuillantine wins.  It is probably the favorite of each one of my team of experts.  Sure, it is  not made with Valrhona's praline paste, but who can afford that anyway?


This brand is certainly not on the same level as Lindt, but several of their offerings are pretty good, plus they are decidedly less expensive.  They are also rolling out a line of organic chocolate bars.

Truffé Noir is light and easy to eat, as chocolate should be.  What is chocolate if it's not easy to eat?  There is not any real intensity in this bar, but it is a nice sweet treat.


Praliné Intense Noir was heavy on the nuts if a bit too sweet.  Not a bad afternoon snack.  Ignore my empty box of Kinder Chocofresh...


Fin Noir Orange was not delicious.  The little bits of orange were unpleasant and abundant.

Mousse au Chocolat Noir circling back to Lindt...was another one of those ho-hum tablets that is best enjoyed as an afternoon snack.



Here is a brand readily available at each "Bio" or organic market in Paris.  The prices are a little higher as you are paying for the organic-ness, but overall I would say it is worth the money.  They even offer couverture chocolate for professional use.

70% Cacao was a great first selection and I look forward to trying more of their bars.


Also tried, but not recommended: Framboise Intense, Noir Puur, Schoko-Bons


Let me know in the comments if there are other brands and flavors I should have tried!


4/15/17

Eclairs

One of the things that is shaping my Parisian experience most is pastry.  From choux-based classics to thin cakes in between layers of mousse, it's my mission to experience them all.

This post will focus on a familiar classic: l'éclair.  Traditionally, éclairs consist of baked pâte à choux, chocolate or coffee pastry cream, and a stripe of chocolate or coffee fondant.  However, especially in Paris, you will find innovative flavors in addition to the traditional ones.  

I've tried éclairs from five or six different places here in Paris and here's my current list.  You will find a list with information and addresses at the end of this post.




This multi-store patisserie was founded in 1859 and continues to turn out lovely food and create a clean, sunny atmosphere.  They've got 13 stores in the Paris area.  No small operation.  In 2015 they were named makers of the best éclair au chocolat in Paris.  

I stopped by their Saint Michel location for a mid-morning snack one sunny day.  In their refrigerated case, they displayed their award-winning éclair au chocolat, as well as salted caramel and passion fruit varieties.  


   
I opted for the award-winner.  The quality of the chocolate glaze was good, nice and dark.  The pâte à choux was baked well, but overall they lacked the perfection I was seeking in a 4€ pastry.  The filling was not the most flavorful and the choux was a little soggy, which I suppose in bound to happen with creamy fillings.  A good snack, but for me, not the best éclair of Paris.


L'Eclair de Génie

Perhaps the most well-known purveyor of éclairs is L'Eclair de Génie. With boutiques all over the world, Christophe Adam has created a sensation.  The meticulously created pastries here are always perfect.  One could easily eat lunch in Paris for the 6€ it costs to enjoy one of these treats.  

Unfortunately, my only photo of éclairs from this place is dark and unflattering.  But, just trust me.  These things are incredible.  Each creation is classic and new, sweet, crunchy, smooth, gorgeous...  

Pictured L to R are: Salted Butter Caramel, Vanilla Pecan, Dark Chocolate, Pistachio Raspberry    





From all appearances, Thevenin is an up-and-coming patisserie in Paris.  You can grab lunch at one of their shops to go with your bread and fancy pastry.  Their éclairs weren't the most beautiful, the choux wasn't baked quite as darkly as I prefer, but the flavor and filling was spot on.  The Thevenin éclairs au chocolat are more milk chocolate than dark, which is a nice change.



It was a pleasant thing to enjoy in the park by Notre-Dame de Paris.


I'm sure that I've barely scratched the surface of éclairs in Paris.  Please leave comments of your favorite éclair in Paris!

Maison Pradier

http://www.maisonpradier.com/

Well established patisserie and popular for their brunch as well.  Check out their beautiful website for a peek at their methods.  

13 Locations in the Paris area. 

The Saint Michel location is open each day and accessible by the Saint-Michel and Cluny/La Sorbonne metro stations

14 Boulevard Saint-Michel 
75006 Paris

L'Eclair de Génie

http://leclairdegenie.com/

Bright and beautiful store-fronts welcome you in for a beautiful sight to go with beautiful tastes.

9 Boutiques in Paris, 5 in Japan, 5 in Hong Kong, 2 in Italy

Thevenin

A great spot for a good pastry or loaf of bread.  Notre-Dame-des-Champs location is closed on Sundays

119 Avenue du Général Leclerc
75014 Paris

14 Rue Daguerre
75014 Paris

5 Rue Notre Dame des Champs
75006 Paris


2/1/17

Fine Chocolate in Paris

For a month, I have been saving up my photographs and thoughts of chocolatiers of Paris.  Let it be known that what follows only opens the Door of Parisian Chocolate one tiny crack and that many of my upcoming posts could indeed be called "Fine Chocolate in Paris," too.

At this point, it will stress me out if I don't begin writing on this topic because my stories, analysis and photographs are piling up and my fingers need to let the words loose into cyberspace.

Daskalides

The first chocolatier I tried was the chocolate shop in my town, Houilles.  Daskalides is a Belgian brand with a tiny storefront 2 minutes from my house.  I stopped by on a rainy January day for a few pieces.  As I tried to enter, the door seemed stuck, so I assumed that they were taking a lunch break or some such French thing.  The helpful and friendly shopkeeper ran out after me, explaining something about the door that I didn't quite comprehend.  The point is, I made it into the chocolaterie.  I told the lady that I am American and I am looking to try all of the chocolate I can while I'm here.  She was very receptive and kind and patient while I made my selection of six bonbons. The confections were sold by weight and cost me only 3€.  The saleslady even threw in an extra piece for me to try.  



    
My selections included a variety of flavors.  Nuts, fruit, dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and liquor.  The bonbons themselves were quite sweet, the shells a bit too thick and the fillings slightly dry.  They reminded me of a box of Godiva.  Not terrible, but certainly factory produced.  I will return for the good service and good prices if I find myself at home and in need of chocolate.  


Girard

During a walk in Le Marais one late morning, I found Girard.  The shop itself was not particularly charming.  Their colors of orange and brown were rather drab, their packaging not particularly chic and the lights were dim in a dingy kind of way instead of in a mysterious one.    

As I was about to leave empty-handed, a package of peanut butter chocolates caught my eye, and I knew I would have to give them a taste.  

Peanut Butter and chocolate are soul mates.  In other words, it's difficult to come out with a bad product when you mix the two together.  These Girard Praline Cacahuete suited me just fine.  Were they the most delicious? No.  Were they worth trying? Yes.

Girard could step up their packaging game, because chocolates tossed in a bag will never come out without some scratches and imperfections.


Michel Cluizel

In the states, I've tried Michel Cluizel's couverture chocolates.  I remember being impressed that a small factory could produce such high-quality and varied chocolate for tempering.  But, Cluizel makes more than just chocolate for other chocolatiers to make chocolate with.  You follow?  The business has several shops in Paris and even one in New York.  

I've now been inside two of the Cluizel shops in Paris and must say that I am impressed with the clean, yet chocolaty design.  The shops are very bright and clean, with a chocolate fountain/wall featured somewhere in the shop.  The window displays are appealing and seasonal and the shelves are full of chocolate bars with varying origins and percentages.  

This time, I chose six pieces to test.  Serious business, this.



Among the six were highs and lows.  The pistachio-almond praline fell short, the 85% cacao hit the spot and the layered crunchy bonbon was completely new and unexpected.

  

La Maison du Chocolat

Perhaps the most famous chocolatier in the world, La Maison du Chocolat lives up to the expectations I had.  I've been in two locations , and I'm sure the quality of the chocolate is consistent, but I had a slightly better experience at the shop in La Madeleine.  The shop is kept by polite and helpful ladies and gentlemen who remind one of the classy people who work in the shoe section at Nordstrom.  You know how professional those people are?  

A young man offered to help me and I decided I would choose four pieces.  He very carefully nestled my selections into a bag and offered me an extra one to taste.  I told him to pick.  He gave me a passion fruit-infused ganache that was exquisite.  



My moments in La Maison du Chocolat were some of my best, as the employees did not break into English as soon as they heard my "bonjour."  I somehow managed to get through the entire transaction speaking and being spoken to only in French.  I felt quite Parisienne as I walked out the door with five chocolate sellers calling "au revoir, madame" after me.  

The chocolates themselves have impossibly sharp corners, perfectly textured ganaches, and timeless designs.  Everything about these confections says: classic.  La Maison du Chocolat is fighting for the first place on my list of favorite chocolatiers.



Patrick Roger

Previously my favorite Parisian chocolatier, Patrick Roger is keeping up the quality.  Patrick Roger is an experience.  My favorite of his shops so far is the Madeleine location.  The storefront itself is impressive and there is plenty of space for ornate displays of chocolate sculpture.  There is a quiet lounge upstairs that is set up like a museum where shoppers can sit for a moment to enjoy the ornate sculptures.  Apparently, chocolate showpieces can translate well into other mediums, because Roger recently opened an exhibition of metal sculptures at Christie's in Paris.  



The shelves at Patrick Roger are lined with products that the buyer is informed not to touch.  Unlike many chocolatiers, Roger does not make it easy to choose your own pieces.  Each size box has preset flavors.  For me, this is not a problem.  I quite enjoy trying unexpected flavors.  


The workers always seem to be ever so busy packaging chocolates that one wonders how much they sell on a regular Tuesday afternoon.  It must be an awful lot.  


The chocolates were enjoyed by me and my boyfriend at a little cafe close to St. Lazare with an espresso each.  The ganaches were slightly dry and the flavors quite subtle, but the crunchy hazelnut praline saved the show.  And come on, you can't beat that sleek packaging.




    What other chocolatiers should I try in Paris?  Are there specific specialty products that I'm missing out on?  

     
  

1/11/17

Je Suis Ici Pour Manger

The beginning of January has been eventful on the eating front.  I've had several friends here who have been enablers when it comes to my food habits, and it has been dreamy.

Pastries at Angelina
My recent food adventures range from experiences like trying to find my favorite American foods, to partaking in extravagant tea-time rituals.  

The first thing I thought about when I landed in Paris was where I would find peanut butter.  Okay, maybe the first thing I thought about was seeing my boyfriend.  But, I would safely say it was at least the fifth or sixth thing I thought about.  Peanut butter is to the American body as gasoline is to une voiture.  It is fuel and we guzzle it.  My local Intermarché does not sell the stuff.  The first place I found it was at Le Bon Marché in Paris.  Which, for those of you who don't know, is a foodie destination.  As such, it is absurdly expensive.  They stock Mississippi Belle in 18oz jars for more than 10€!  This brand is not even made exclusively of peanuts.  Later, I found some awesome organic peanut butter at Biocoop for a more reasonable 4€.  It may very well be the most delicious peanut butter I've tasted.  

The proof

My new favorite peanut butter


Obviously, I did not spend money on peanut butter at Le Bon Marché, but I did indulge in a few other little pleasures.  A portion of Pont-l'Évêque and a few squares of Valrhona.  On my way home, I stopped at my local Festival des Pains for a baguette traditional to eat alongside my cheese.  No words can describe how supremely French I feel with a baguette sticking out of my bag as I stroll along.  

Pont-l'Évêque


Alpaco, Abinao, and Caraibe remain my favorites
Have baguette; will travel

Last week, I had the pleasure of spending an hour or so at Angelina for a famous chocolat chaud with the lovely French-speaking Sarah.  Sarah lived in Paris to study and speaks French very well.  I even heard our server saying so.  The original Angelina is on Rue de Rivoli and contains a clean boutique and an upscale dining area.  Sarah told me that Coco Chanel, who lived at The Ritz nearby, took her morning nourishment in this beautiful dining room.  

Chocolat Chaud

photo by Sarah
The place was full and busy with tourists.  The chocolat chaud was 9€.  I'm no Coco Chanel; I can't afford a 9€ beverage each day, but the stuff was worth it.  I will be hard-pressed to find a better cup of chocolate.  Just to make sure that my body was completely full of sugar, I ordered a Mont-Blanc Chocolat as well.  If you're into chestnut and chocolate, follow my lead.

Mont-Blanc Chocolat


I've had a few other lovely food and coffee adventures and I'm sure that before another day goes by, I'll have even more.  

Boulangerie on Île Saint-Louis