Showing posts with label writing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label writing. Show all posts

8/8/17

English Speaking Spots in Paris, Part 3: Honor Cafe

Honor Cafe 



Tucked away in a courtyard across from President Macron's abode you will come upon Honor Cafe.  Their signs proclaim that they prepare "the coffee Paris should be known for" and I cannot disagree.  The location is convenient, if you're busy shopping in Madeleine or visiting Le Jardin des Tuileries.  Friendly, skilled baristas will greet you in English or French to take your order.  You have the option to take yours "to go," but I suggest taking a minute to sit in the architecturally interesting shop or out in the cobbled courtyard.

Alice Maggio of Seek and Pursue
I had the pleasure of accompanying friend and travel blogger, Alice Maggio for her first experience at Honor Cafe.  Alice was impressed by the architecture of the small nook, and remembers being warmed by her steamy cappuccino on a drizzly Paris afternoon. "The alley way status of this cafe is to its advantage because of the fact that it is surrounded by a major segment of Paris' fashion scene. The store signs in the neighborhood were almost blinding while the chalk sign displaying Honor's coffee was humbler and more down-to-earth.  It's far more comforting than the sleek and sanitized Chanel shop that shares its postal code. "





Honor Cafe is an easy place to find iced coffee in the summertime and enjoy a slice of banana bread if you have a hankering.  The shop even offers flasks of coffee stamped with their name for fanatics.  It's a comfort to the weary traveler or expat looking for a go-to coffee shop and a fun stop for residents to chat with the barista while sipping a freshly brewed cup.  



Details

Eats range from 3-12

Drinks from 3-6

Address:
54 Rue du Faubourg St Honore, Paris 75008


Metro: Madeleine, Concorde

Hours:
Monday-Friday: 9h-18h
Saturday: 10h-18h
Sunday: CLOSED



6/22/17

English Speaking Spots in Paris, Part 2: Broken Biscuits

This post is the second installment of my "English Speaking Spots in Paris" series.

Broken Biscuits

I found Broken Biscuits one fateful day after visiting the Pere Lachaise cemetery.  The storefront is tiny and there is only space for 2 or 3 people to sit inside, so I almost passed it by. The shop is located in a passage with few or no cars, so there are usually two tables outside in the road where you can enjoy your delicious pastry and coffee.  Sitting at a tiny blue table with a cup of something warm and a lovely bite to eat in a cobbled alley with a view of a florist shop is altogether Parisian.  At least, the Paris that people from the New World dream about.

Cafe Creme and Cheesecake

The pastry case at this place is impressive.  In it you will find classic French offerings, re-done favorites, and even British inspired treats.  At the counter, a pile of golden madeleines will entice you while the friendly staff makes your coffee.



It is obvious that a huge amount of care goes into the food and drinks produced in Broken Biscuits.  So, treat yourself to a delicious and gorgeous experience there as soon as possible.



Details

Eats range from 2-15

Drinks from 4-6

Address:
10 Passage Rochebrune, 75011 Paris

Metro: Rue St. Maur, Pere Lachaise

Hours:
Monday/Tuesday: Closed
Wednesday-Friday:
8:30AM-6PM
Saturday/Sunday:
10AM-7PM


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3/21/17

Je Suis Parisienne and Other Lies

Lie 1: Je suis Parisienne

It's not that I truly think I'm Parisian.  I mean, maybe a little.  But, each time I successfully give directions, am able to carry out a food order entirely in French, or have a baguette poking out of my bag I feel like I belong here. Plus, I love cheese; it's pretty Parisian to love cheese.



Aside from that, there are ways that I will always be American.  I continually pronounce English words like an American instead of like a French person.  For example, the word "bagel" is pronounced more like "bagelle" by French people.  I'm sorry, but it's an English word and I can't bring myself to mispronounce it.


Lie 2: Expensive is better

The crêpe in the next photo was delicious and cost me 3€.  The crêpe in the following photo cost 4€ and tasted far worse.  


This guy was made lovingly by Patricia, the woman who runs the crêpe place at the market.  It is made with buckwheat flour, cheese, butter, eggs, and ham.  


This guy, on the other hand, was more expensive and made at a busy crêperie near Centre Pompidou.  It was not made with the buckwheat flour which is traditional for a savory crêpe.  It was over-filled and not folded in that lovely way that Patricia has.  

Lie 3: There is no good Mexican food in Paris

So maybe I still haven't sipped a great margarita yet in Paris, but it is possible to find decent Mexican food here.  



Lie 4: It is possible to overdose on viennoiserie

It's simply not true.

Arguably the best croissant in Paris





Bocamexa

Quick Mexican food and drinks.
Two restaurants and one food truck.

http://www.bocamexa.com/
95 Rue Oberkampf, 75011 Paris
127 Rue Mouffetard, 75005 Paris

Gontran Cherrier

The best and most beautiful croissant I've enjoyed.

http://www.gontrancherrierboulanger.com/
22 Rue Caulaincourt, 75018 Paris
8 Rue Juliette Lamber, 75017 Paris
1 Rue Grande Fontaine, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye

Dominique Saibron

Big, busy bakery where you can
watch the boulanger work through the window.

http://dominique-saibron.com/en/home/
77 Avenue du Général Leclerc, 75014 Paris



2/1/17

Fine Chocolate in Paris

For a month, I have been saving up my photographs and thoughts of chocolatiers of Paris.  Let it be known that what follows only opens the Door of Parisian Chocolate one tiny crack and that many of my upcoming posts could indeed be called "Fine Chocolate in Paris," too.

At this point, it will stress me out if I don't begin writing on this topic because my stories, analysis and photographs are piling up and my fingers need to let the words loose into cyberspace.

Daskalides

The first chocolatier I tried was the chocolate shop in my town, Houilles.  Daskalides is a Belgian brand with a tiny storefront 2 minutes from my house.  I stopped by on a rainy January day for a few pieces.  As I tried to enter, the door seemed stuck, so I assumed that they were taking a lunch break or some such French thing.  The helpful and friendly shopkeeper ran out after me, explaining something about the door that I didn't quite comprehend.  The point is, I made it into the chocolaterie.  I told the lady that I am American and I am looking to try all of the chocolate I can while I'm here.  She was very receptive and kind and patient while I made my selection of six bonbons. The confections were sold by weight and cost me only 3€.  The saleslady even threw in an extra piece for me to try.  



    
My selections included a variety of flavors.  Nuts, fruit, dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and liquor.  The bonbons themselves were quite sweet, the shells a bit too thick and the fillings slightly dry.  They reminded me of a box of Godiva.  Not terrible, but certainly factory produced.  I will return for the good service and good prices if I find myself at home and in need of chocolate.  


Girard

During a walk in Le Marais one late morning, I found Girard.  The shop itself was not particularly charming.  Their colors of orange and brown were rather drab, their packaging not particularly chic and the lights were dim in a dingy kind of way instead of in a mysterious one.    

As I was about to leave empty-handed, a package of peanut butter chocolates caught my eye, and I knew I would have to give them a taste.  

Peanut Butter and chocolate are soul mates.  In other words, it's difficult to come out with a bad product when you mix the two together.  These Girard Praline Cacahuete suited me just fine.  Were they the most delicious? No.  Were they worth trying? Yes.

Girard could step up their packaging game, because chocolates tossed in a bag will never come out without some scratches and imperfections.


Michel Cluizel

In the states, I've tried Michel Cluizel's couverture chocolates.  I remember being impressed that a small factory could produce such high-quality and varied chocolate for tempering.  But, Cluizel makes more than just chocolate for other chocolatiers to make chocolate with.  You follow?  The business has several shops in Paris and even one in New York.  

I've now been inside two of the Cluizel shops in Paris and must say that I am impressed with the clean, yet chocolaty design.  The shops are very bright and clean, with a chocolate fountain/wall featured somewhere in the shop.  The window displays are appealing and seasonal and the shelves are full of chocolate bars with varying origins and percentages.  

This time, I chose six pieces to test.  Serious business, this.



Among the six were highs and lows.  The pistachio-almond praline fell short, the 85% cacao hit the spot and the layered crunchy bonbon was completely new and unexpected.

  

La Maison du Chocolat

Perhaps the most famous chocolatier in the world, La Maison du Chocolat lives up to the expectations I had.  I've been in two locations , and I'm sure the quality of the chocolate is consistent, but I had a slightly better experience at the shop in La Madeleine.  The shop is kept by polite and helpful ladies and gentlemen who remind one of the classy people who work in the shoe section at Nordstrom.  You know how professional those people are?  

A young man offered to help me and I decided I would choose four pieces.  He very carefully nestled my selections into a bag and offered me an extra one to taste.  I told him to pick.  He gave me a passion fruit-infused ganache that was exquisite.  



My moments in La Maison du Chocolat were some of my best, as the employees did not break into English as soon as they heard my "bonjour."  I somehow managed to get through the entire transaction speaking and being spoken to only in French.  I felt quite Parisienne as I walked out the door with five chocolate sellers calling "au revoir, madame" after me.  

The chocolates themselves have impossibly sharp corners, perfectly textured ganaches, and timeless designs.  Everything about these confections says: classic.  La Maison du Chocolat is fighting for the first place on my list of favorite chocolatiers.



Patrick Roger

Previously my favorite Parisian chocolatier, Patrick Roger is keeping up the quality.  Patrick Roger is an experience.  My favorite of his shops so far is the Madeleine location.  The storefront itself is impressive and there is plenty of space for ornate displays of chocolate sculpture.  There is a quiet lounge upstairs that is set up like a museum where shoppers can sit for a moment to enjoy the ornate sculptures.  Apparently, chocolate showpieces can translate well into other mediums, because Roger recently opened an exhibition of metal sculptures at Christie's in Paris.  



The shelves at Patrick Roger are lined with products that the buyer is informed not to touch.  Unlike many chocolatiers, Roger does not make it easy to choose your own pieces.  Each size box has preset flavors.  For me, this is not a problem.  I quite enjoy trying unexpected flavors.  


The workers always seem to be ever so busy packaging chocolates that one wonders how much they sell on a regular Tuesday afternoon.  It must be an awful lot.  


The chocolates were enjoyed by me and my boyfriend at a little cafe close to St. Lazare with an espresso each.  The ganaches were slightly dry and the flavors quite subtle, but the crunchy hazelnut praline saved the show.  And come on, you can't beat that sleek packaging.




    What other chocolatiers should I try in Paris?  Are there specific specialty products that I'm missing out on?  

     
  

1/18/17

Je Vais Prendre un Pain au Chocolat

There are a few French words, sentences, and phrases that I will not soon forget.  Of course, I'll never forget "merci," "bonsoir," or "d'accord."  I use these words daily or hourly.  In addition to these, there are a few phrases that I use more than I anticipated.

pain au chocolat a la Regis Colin
Perhaps most importantly, "je vais prendre un pain au chocolat" will always be filed away in my brain under important sentences.  "I'll take a pain au chocolat."  For the next six months, I will be on the hunt for my favorite pain au chocolat in Paris.


Thus far, I have tried the offerings at Paul, Eric Kayser, and Régis Colin.  A significant amount of my time is spent around the 2nd arrondissement and all three of these boulangeries can be found there.  Paul is an international chain that I had tried once or twice in the USA.  The quality at Parisian Paul locations is superior and the prices lower.  It's still a chain, but a respectable one for the price.  Eric Kayser is a pretty well-known international chain, too.  Something about the ambiance feels vaguely more Parisian and I find the proportions and distribution of dough-to-chocolate superior to Paul.  


galettes des rois 
As of now, Régis Colin takes the prize for my favorite croissant dough.  The store-front on Rue de Montmartre is small with an automatic door, and interesting form of self-check-out.  The lady behind the counter was very helpful and efficient without being rude.  It seems that Colin is known for his Galette des Rois, which I suppose I ought to try before the month is up.  His croissant dough is to die for.  It is certainly one of those delicacies that one doesn't want to come to an end.  At all three of these establishments croissant are right around 1€ and pain au chocolat 20 cents more, or so.  So remind me why they cost triple that in the US?   



The search will certainly continue and I welcome your suggestions of bakeries to try.  Hopefully soon I will have a chance to explore the viennoiserie that Montmartre has to offer.


1/17/17

Getting Used to Things

Living in France is an education.  Like any experience, I came into it with preconceived notions and ideas about the challenges, differences, and just about everything else for that matter.  Now that I've been here for 23 days, I have plenty of thoughts on what I was right about, wrong about, or never even thought of in the first place.  But for now, I'll just focus on what I never saw coming.


Never did I think that viennoiserie crumbs getting caught in my scarf would be such a regular occurrence.  More than once, I have found myself walking down a cobblestone street with a pain au chocolat leaving half of its layers in the folds of my black pashmina.


Who would have thought that the lines at La Poste could be so long, so often?  As a prolific letter writer, the lines don't quite dissuade me from sending my envelopes, but they come close.  

The people who work at our local Saturday market are the friendliest ever.  They give away free morsels with enthusiasm and make lovely conversation while preparing your crêpes.  It's amazing to me that in the sea of people who descend on the market every week, vendors specifically remember particular customers.  


I'm sure I'll discover many more unexpected perks and problems with Paris during my stay.  And for those of you who are here for the recipes, I hope to get back to that soon, too.



1/11/17

Je Suis Ici Pour Manger

The beginning of January has been eventful on the eating front.  I've had several friends here who have been enablers when it comes to my food habits, and it has been dreamy.

Pastries at Angelina
My recent food adventures range from experiences like trying to find my favorite American foods, to partaking in extravagant tea-time rituals.  

The first thing I thought about when I landed in Paris was where I would find peanut butter.  Okay, maybe the first thing I thought about was seeing my boyfriend.  But, I would safely say it was at least the fifth or sixth thing I thought about.  Peanut butter is to the American body as gasoline is to une voiture.  It is fuel and we guzzle it.  My local Intermarché does not sell the stuff.  The first place I found it was at Le Bon Marché in Paris.  Which, for those of you who don't know, is a foodie destination.  As such, it is absurdly expensive.  They stock Mississippi Belle in 18oz jars for more than 10€!  This brand is not even made exclusively of peanuts.  Later, I found some awesome organic peanut butter at Biocoop for a more reasonable 4€.  It may very well be the most delicious peanut butter I've tasted.  

The proof

My new favorite peanut butter


Obviously, I did not spend money on peanut butter at Le Bon Marché, but I did indulge in a few other little pleasures.  A portion of Pont-l'Évêque and a few squares of Valrhona.  On my way home, I stopped at my local Festival des Pains for a baguette traditional to eat alongside my cheese.  No words can describe how supremely French I feel with a baguette sticking out of my bag as I stroll along.  

Pont-l'Évêque


Alpaco, Abinao, and Caraibe remain my favorites
Have baguette; will travel

Last week, I had the pleasure of spending an hour or so at Angelina for a famous chocolat chaud with the lovely French-speaking Sarah.  Sarah lived in Paris to study and speaks French very well.  I even heard our server saying so.  The original Angelina is on Rue de Rivoli and contains a clean boutique and an upscale dining area.  Sarah told me that Coco Chanel, who lived at The Ritz nearby, took her morning nourishment in this beautiful dining room.  

Chocolat Chaud

photo by Sarah
The place was full and busy with tourists.  The chocolat chaud was 9€.  I'm no Coco Chanel; I can't afford a 9€ beverage each day, but the stuff was worth it.  I will be hard-pressed to find a better cup of chocolate.  Just to make sure that my body was completely full of sugar, I ordered a Mont-Blanc Chocolat as well.  If you're into chestnut and chocolate, follow my lead.

Mont-Blanc Chocolat


I've had a few other lovely food and coffee adventures and I'm sure that before another day goes by, I'll have even more.  

Boulangerie on Île Saint-Louis


1/1/17

La Diversité

Paris, I've found, is quite diverse.  It is a fact that makes this place so appealing to me in several respects.  The city and its suburbs are demographically varied, but what surprises me is the variety of activities, food, and scenery.  Each neighborhood has an identity, homegrown businesses, pittoresque parks and much more to keep its dwellers content.

sandwich in the cafe window
There are cute conceptual businesses like Cosy Corner in the 4th arrondissement with a view of La Tour Saint-Jacques just across the way.  Cosy Corner is a sleek, silent internet café perfect for studying or writing blog posts. For €5 an hour, visitors have access to wifi and silence along with unlimited tea-time beverages and eats.  A great spot to take your date if you're nervous about having a conversation.  wink wink 

I'm sure I will return often to study, write and have a piece of cake.  Obviously, like all things in my life, I'm in it for the cake.


Chocolate cake at Cozy Corner

Do you spy La Tour Saint-Jacques?
Human diversity played a role in my enjoyment of the New Year's Eve festivities in Paris.  I went to the Champs-Élysées to see the light show on l'Arc de Triomphe.  My group consisted of a Parisian, five Italians and yours truly.  Not only was my personal circle diverse and interesting, they opened doors for us to have funny encounters.  Like the Japanese gentleman who spoke to us in an enthusiastic smattering of French, Italian and English.  I also enjoyed the apparently typical group of Algerians who were chanting patriotically for their country even though patriotism is fairly irrelevant in terms of ringing in a new year.  

Champs-Élysées on New Year's Eve
I am becoming more comfortable with the language barrier, although I hope at least the French one will begin to fall, and I find it amusing to communicate through facial expressions, gestures and an odd word or two.   


This was supposed to be a food blog, right?  So, I guess it's necessary to have a bit more discussion of food and the different choices one has in Paris.  I've had authentic-tasting Middle Eastern, North African,  Indian, and Portuguese food and approximations of American specialties, but as of now, I think that the Mexican food is lacking.  


Upon my arrival last Sunday I was guided to O'Tacos in Saint-Denis which is a chain here that specializes in tacos, right?  Don't be fooled by the fact that this establishment is literally named after tacos.  The concept is French influenced tacos - which turn out more like burritos - and I'm not saying that they are displeasing.  However, my first Mexican (?) food experience here did not make me feel like I was in Texas eating outside of a hoppin' food truck.  I was just eating cordon bleu wrapped in a flour tortilla.

excuse this horrendous photograph
Paris is obviously a hub for culture, so it makes sense that plenty of activities are available to the common man.  Okay, maybe not everyone attends the opera or the ballet.  It is, however, likely that anyone could.  There are all sorts of discounts for students, employees of certain companies and specific day-of-the-week deals to make the arts and activities accessible for all.  Museums, landmarks, shows, you name it.  Last week, I had the privilege of attending a contemporary ballet at Palais Garnier.  The seats were the cheap ones, but by no means undesirable.  The view was unhindered and the performance immensely enjoyable.  I recalled trying to find tickets to a ballet at the Kennedy Center several months ago and the only available seats were upwards of $80.  Here it's more like $30.  I was even able to visit the tower of Notre Dame de Paris free of charge as a student.

Come out of the metro and BAM: Palais Garnier


Spectacular views from Notre Dame de Paris - free for students


Visit Paris and see for yourself everything it offers.