Showing posts with label food tour. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food tour. Show all posts

6/21/17

English Speaking Spots in Paris, Part 1: Boneshaker

I know it can be anxiety inducing to visit a country where they don't speak your language.  Of course, in Paris most people have some level of English and you should really try to speak in French when you visit, but it can be sort of fun to visit a cute cafe where you hear the proprietors speaking multiple languages behind the counter.  

For your convenience, I've compiled a list of my favorite French/English speaking spots in Paris. This is the first installment.


Boneshaker 


This is a doughnut shop.  In the light of this fact, perhaps you can understand why it is the subject of my first "English Speaking Spots in Paris" series.  Doughnuts are one of my absolute favorite foods.  This is pretty much the only place I've been able to find in Paris with real doughnuts.

Boneshaker is a tiny gem in the heart of a fun neighborhood in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris.  The storefront features a display of doughnuts, bicycle decor, and the window seats have a view of the lingerie shop across the street.  The kitchen upstairs is the birthplace of irresistible doughnuts, brownies, and more.



Boneshaker Paris
The Interior
Menu

Raspberry-Lime
Salted Butter Caramel

Chocolate Cardamom
Peanut Butter Banana, Cherry Pie, S'Mores, Beer Glazed
"Martha Washington" aka Cherry Pie
S'mores

House Made Lemonade
Organic Teas
As you will be able to tell from the photos you just scrolled through, I have enjoyed Boneshaker's doughnuts on multiple occasions.  There is often a new seasonal flavor to try which makes frequent visits necessary for an addict like me.  

Try any flavor of doughnut; you won't be disappointed.  Rumor has it that Saturday is cinnamon roll day, so it can't hurt to head over then.

Thank you for making Paris an even happier place, Boneshaker!

Details

Eats range from 4-5

Drinks from 3-5

Address:
77 Rue d'Aboukir, 75002 Paris

Metro: Sentier, 

RER: Chatelet/Les Halles

Hours:
Tuesday-Friday
10AM-5PM
Saturday
10AM-6PM

Phone: +33 01 45 08 84 02

Email:
bonjour@boneshakerparis.com

Website:
http://www.boneshakerparis.com/




4/26/17

The Jacques Genin Experience

You are visiting Paris.  You have 20 or 30 left in your wallet.  The weather has just taken a turn for the gray and you have a hankering for a pick-me-up.  Of course, you could go to Le Bon Marche to hide from the rain, find some gifts to take home, and have a bite to eat.  It also wouldn't be a bad idea to head over to Shakespeare and Company  or Pont Neuf for a boat ride.  But, if you really want to spend your time and those last few euros wisely, you really ought to make your way to Jacques Genin.  





This perfect boutique and tea room is located in a tastefully updated old building on Rue de Turenne.  Chocolates and confections are expertly displayed and a serene tea room is set up on one side of the shop with fresh flowers on each table and a spiral staircase to heaven/the pastry kitchen     







I have visited this special place many times now and have grown to have a great respect for Chef Jacques Genin and the quality he manages to maintain day in and day out.  The chef himself seems truly to be present in his kitchen.  During one of my visits, he descended inconspicuously to place bags of perfectly baked madeleines on the sales counter.  My companions and I saw him strolling outside with an interviewer and he later returned to go back to his kitchen.  My mom, who was visiting from the US, told him how exquisite her experience was and he humbly thanked her like a real professional.  


Each front-of-the-house employee is dressed in refined black clothes and they all at least speak French and English.  If you can, visit around the time of a holiday to see the elegant chocolate displays and take one home with you to enjoy that evening. Because let's be real, no matter how beautiful it is you are not going to be able to resist having a taste.  If you are lucky enough to visit when the chef himself descends with a limited amount of some special treat he has whipped up, snatch a bag without hesitation.  They will not last long and are worth the price.  



The chocolates at Jacques Genin are mostly decorated with acetate cocoa butter transfer sheets.  Genin chooses minimalist designs that allow the rich tones of the dark and milk chocolate to shine through.  This master works with Valrhona chocolate and he knows how to add flavor to this perfect product without compromising the taste of the chocolate itself.  Many of his offerings are delicately infused with spices and herbs while others are filled with classic praline mixes that never disappoint.




If you have the time to sit in the tea room and order a pastry, you will leave Paris feeling that you have had a true French experience.  You will have the choice of several beverages to accompany your freshly made pastry.  You will be presented with your coffee, I recommend the café crème, a glass of water, a small plate of chocolates and/opâtes de fruits, and your flawless pastry.  Even if you are trying to resist the tourist itch of taking photos of everything you eat, you will not be able to resist documenting these wonders.  



Paris-Brest

The Paris-Brest is a pastry that was created in the early 1900s by Louis Durand in honor of a bicycle race from Paris to Brest and back to Paris.  It consists of pâte à choux ring, meant to symbolize a bicycle tire, sprinkled with sliced almonds, baked, and filled with rich praline cream.  It is often adorned with a dusting of confectioner's sugar.

Jacques Genin makes the minor change of swapping the almonds for chopped hazelnuts because the praline paste he uses savors primarily of hazelnut.  



Tart au Chocolat (Chocolate Tart)

Normally, a chocolate tart is a simple pate a sucree shell filled with a ganache of dark chocolate.

Chez Jacques Genin does not deviate from the original.  It is a smooth and crunchy morsel of deliciousness.



Saint-Honoré

The Saint-Honoré is named for the patron saint of bakers.  This wonder mixes a few of the most delicious components in French pastry.  A base of puff pastry is adorned with a ring of pâte à choux, and cream puffs with caramelized sugar.  The cake is filled with crème chiboust and topped with crème chantilly.  

Traditionally, this pastry is in the form of a circle.  Genin updated its format by beginning with a rectangle and omitting the piped pâte à choux.  His version still includes the cream puffs.



Fraisier

Perfect for springtime, the Fraisier is a strikingly beautiful and classic cake.  Genoise, or buttery sponge cake, sandwiches a generous layer of vanilla cream bejeweled with fresh strawberries.  The entremet is finished with a thin layer of almond paste or marzipan.

The marzipan layer is often artificially colored green, but at Jacques Genin you will not find any fake colors in your almond paste.



Forêt Noire (Black Forest Cake)

This well-known cake originated in Germany, but that does not stop other nations from making it.  You will find layers of chocolate sponge cake and whipped cream highlighted with boozy cherries and chocolate shavings.

The version at Jacques Genin is modern and sophisticated.  Chocolate sponge cake, chocolate mousse, and whipped envelop whole cherries and a shard of tempered chocolate sticks like a piece of fancy jewelry to the side of each slice.  



Well, internet, now you know my obsession with Jacques Genin.  If you want to see the man in action, but cannot visit the shop, check the links below for a few short videos.




Jacques Genin

http://jacquesgenin.fr/fr/

Perfect bonbons, refined tea room, and perfect ambiance.  

133 Rue de Turenne
75003, Paris

Metro: Republique

27 Rue de Varenne
75007, Paris

Metro: Varenne or Rue du Bac

2/10/17

A Taste of Berlin: Part 2

From my limited experience I have surmised that food cost and portion sizes are entirely different from Paris to Berlin.  The cafes and bakeries of Berlin somehow manage to keep food costs down and portions large.

For breakfast on a foggy, cold morning, we found a corner cafe for a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon, salad, bread, hot chocolate, milk, and rhubarb pie. 

The "Holland Style" hot chocolate was enormous and fairly delicious.  


The bread was quite German the eggs good and the bacon perhaps a touch too salty.  But, take note of the rhubarb pie, which was a perfect piece of sweetness.  The crust had buttery flavor, the filling was soft without being soggy and the rhubarb's tartness came through.


If you have a hankering for Portuguese treats, Berlin is the place to be.  We passed several shops specializing in Portuguese eats and stopped in for Pastel de Nata, Bolinos de Bacalhau, and a Galão.

The Portuguese woman in the shop was especially friendly and excited about her products.  For a gray Sunday afternoon, her little cafe was rather busy.  The pastel de nata measured up to the ones I've tried in Paris, the Bolos de Bacalhau were a nice mix of salty cod and potato pancake, and the galão was a decadent and beautiful coffee.    

Pastel de Nata

Galã

Bolos de Bacalhau

Does anyone have any suggestions for the next trip to Berlin?  Best markets, authentic German food or other great finds?

2/1/17

Fine Chocolate in Paris

For a month, I have been saving up my photographs and thoughts of chocolatiers of Paris.  Let it be known that what follows only opens the Door of Parisian Chocolate one tiny crack and that many of my upcoming posts could indeed be called "Fine Chocolate in Paris," too.

At this point, it will stress me out if I don't begin writing on this topic because my stories, analysis and photographs are piling up and my fingers need to let the words loose into cyberspace.

Daskalides

The first chocolatier I tried was the chocolate shop in my town, Houilles.  Daskalides is a Belgian brand with a tiny storefront 2 minutes from my house.  I stopped by on a rainy January day for a few pieces.  As I tried to enter, the door seemed stuck, so I assumed that they were taking a lunch break or some such French thing.  The helpful and friendly shopkeeper ran out after me, explaining something about the door that I didn't quite comprehend.  The point is, I made it into the chocolaterie.  I told the lady that I am American and I am looking to try all of the chocolate I can while I'm here.  She was very receptive and kind and patient while I made my selection of six bonbons. The confections were sold by weight and cost me only 3€.  The saleslady even threw in an extra piece for me to try.  



    
My selections included a variety of flavors.  Nuts, fruit, dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and liquor.  The bonbons themselves were quite sweet, the shells a bit too thick and the fillings slightly dry.  They reminded me of a box of Godiva.  Not terrible, but certainly factory produced.  I will return for the good service and good prices if I find myself at home and in need of chocolate.  


Girard

During a walk in Le Marais one late morning, I found Girard.  The shop itself was not particularly charming.  Their colors of orange and brown were rather drab, their packaging not particularly chic and the lights were dim in a dingy kind of way instead of in a mysterious one.    

As I was about to leave empty-handed, a package of peanut butter chocolates caught my eye, and I knew I would have to give them a taste.  

Peanut Butter and chocolate are soul mates.  In other words, it's difficult to come out with a bad product when you mix the two together.  These Girard Praline Cacahuete suited me just fine.  Were they the most delicious? No.  Were they worth trying? Yes.

Girard could step up their packaging game, because chocolates tossed in a bag will never come out without some scratches and imperfections.


Michel Cluizel

In the states, I've tried Michel Cluizel's couverture chocolates.  I remember being impressed that a small factory could produce such high-quality and varied chocolate for tempering.  But, Cluizel makes more than just chocolate for other chocolatiers to make chocolate with.  You follow?  The business has several shops in Paris and even one in New York.  

I've now been inside two of the Cluizel shops in Paris and must say that I am impressed with the clean, yet chocolaty design.  The shops are very bright and clean, with a chocolate fountain/wall featured somewhere in the shop.  The window displays are appealing and seasonal and the shelves are full of chocolate bars with varying origins and percentages.  

This time, I chose six pieces to test.  Serious business, this.



Among the six were highs and lows.  The pistachio-almond praline fell short, the 85% cacao hit the spot and the layered crunchy bonbon was completely new and unexpected.

  

La Maison du Chocolat

Perhaps the most famous chocolatier in the world, La Maison du Chocolat lives up to the expectations I had.  I've been in two locations , and I'm sure the quality of the chocolate is consistent, but I had a slightly better experience at the shop in La Madeleine.  The shop is kept by polite and helpful ladies and gentlemen who remind one of the classy people who work in the shoe section at Nordstrom.  You know how professional those people are?  

A young man offered to help me and I decided I would choose four pieces.  He very carefully nestled my selections into a bag and offered me an extra one to taste.  I told him to pick.  He gave me a passion fruit-infused ganache that was exquisite.  



My moments in La Maison du Chocolat were some of my best, as the employees did not break into English as soon as they heard my "bonjour."  I somehow managed to get through the entire transaction speaking and being spoken to only in French.  I felt quite Parisienne as I walked out the door with five chocolate sellers calling "au revoir, madame" after me.  

The chocolates themselves have impossibly sharp corners, perfectly textured ganaches, and timeless designs.  Everything about these confections says: classic.  La Maison du Chocolat is fighting for the first place on my list of favorite chocolatiers.



Patrick Roger

Previously my favorite Parisian chocolatier, Patrick Roger is keeping up the quality.  Patrick Roger is an experience.  My favorite of his shops so far is the Madeleine location.  The storefront itself is impressive and there is plenty of space for ornate displays of chocolate sculpture.  There is a quiet lounge upstairs that is set up like a museum where shoppers can sit for a moment to enjoy the ornate sculptures.  Apparently, chocolate showpieces can translate well into other mediums, because Roger recently opened an exhibition of metal sculptures at Christie's in Paris.  



The shelves at Patrick Roger are lined with products that the buyer is informed not to touch.  Unlike many chocolatiers, Roger does not make it easy to choose your own pieces.  Each size box has preset flavors.  For me, this is not a problem.  I quite enjoy trying unexpected flavors.  


The workers always seem to be ever so busy packaging chocolates that one wonders how much they sell on a regular Tuesday afternoon.  It must be an awful lot.  


The chocolates were enjoyed by me and my boyfriend at a little cafe close to St. Lazare with an espresso each.  The ganaches were slightly dry and the flavors quite subtle, but the crunchy hazelnut praline saved the show.  And come on, you can't beat that sleek packaging.




    What other chocolatiers should I try in Paris?  Are there specific specialty products that I'm missing out on?  

     
  

1/4/17

Ceci et Cela

Since arriving in Paris, I've absorbed lots of things. From the downright humorous to the mildly amusing, interesting to unlikely.

Eventually, I will take photos with my DSLR, I promise.  The iPhone photos aren't forever.

But, this post will be a peek into my life here through random pictures.  If you aren't into non-professional photos, consider yourself warned.


I've made it one of my missions, while here in France, to try as much of the cheap chocolate readily available in supermarkets as possible and to report back on how it differs from American offerings.  Milka and Côte d'Or are what I've tried thus far.  These two options are under €2.  Côte d'Or is a Belgian brand owned by Mondelēz. My first purchase was their "L'Original Noir" which is one of the most sugary "dark" chocolates I've ever tasted.  The tablets are difficult to break and overall too big.  In terms of taste, design and quality I wouldn't give this one a high rating.  The Milka "Triple" bar had a bit more going for it.  The tablets are the right size and in each row there is a different filling, three total, thus "Triple."  At least I can say that this one was fun to eat.  

I have only spotted a few American candy bars around.  Yesterday, on the RER, I was next to an older, very thin French woman munching on a Twix bar.  I'm wondering if this woman has cornered the market, because I have not seen a solitary Twix bar in any store or vending machine.  It's also possible that I am not looking hard enough, because honestly, I don't care.  I'm in Paris.  Why would I want American candy?



This gateau was leftover from New Year's Eve and came from a supermarket.  It was a fairly decent strawberry mousse confection.  The gateau itself is not particularly notable, but there is a small story behind it that I find amusing.  

My host kids are in the habit of TURNING DOWN CAKE for dessert and asking instead for cheese or a banana.  

Upon further reflection, I actually totally get the whole cheese thing.


They sell this book at the Palais Garnier gift shop and I want a copy.



Some people I've taken tea with *cough* take a lot of sugar in their tea, 3-5 lumps.  Also, note how adorable the sugar packets are here.  I've seen all sorts of cute designs and rectangular prisms.  Too bad  I never actually use them...   



12/31/16

La Première Semaine

My first week in Paris is coming to a close and I must say the days vanished.

One view from the tower of Notre Dame de Paris
The activities of week 1 were varied and relaxed.  At this point, exploration is my main focus during down-time.  I want to familiarize myself with Houilles, Paris and anywhere else I might find myself on a regular basis.  Paris is relatively easy to explore without feeling lost as a landmark can always orient you.  So, as of yet there has been no real anxiety on my part about being lost or feeling unsafe.

One of the nicest Parisian pastimes is window shopping.  Not only fancy department stores put real effort into their displays; chocolatiers, shoe shops, and stationary stores all have impressive or pleasing arrangements.  

Murciano shop window in Le Marais 
Patrick Roger chocolate showpiece in the window


One would, however, be remiss in just looking. Sometimes, it's necessary to head on in and try. Especially where food is concerned.  

So far, I have eaten some pretty delicious food. It's a treat to be in a new place and try all there is to offer.  I think it might take me the full seven months to even scratch the surface of Paris' food scene.

Strudel au Pavot
One of the most memorable delicacies I have tasted this week was "strudel au pavot" from Murciano.  A soft, sweet, pastry dough sandwiches a moist filling of poppy seeds and dates.  It was also certainly filling, so worth the 3€. 

There is a Crêperie everywhere you go.  I have had two this week.  One sweet - chocolat noir avec amandes -  and one savory - complet.  The savory variety is made with buckwheat flour, so it's vaguely healthier and slightly darker in appearance.  In my case, "complet" was filled with egg, ham and cheese and finished with butter.  It can be mesmerizing to watch the sellers whip up your meal to order.

admittedly an unattractive photograph of my crepe chocolat noir avec amandes
The most posh morsel I've eaten thus far was a pistache et abricot macaron from Pierre Hermé.  I went to the small storefront on Avenue de l'Opéra with elegant automatic doors, dark luxurious interiors and absurdly helpful employees who spoke to me in English even when I tried French.  For the record, I continued speaking my meager French.

maracons arabesque
Before the Villages de Noël closed for the season, I did have the chance to browse and try a warm dish from the French Alps called tartiflette.  It's a heavy meal consisting of potatoes, cheese, meat, and seasoning.  PSA: if you get this, share it with a friend.  


Today, I went to the local market in Houilles with my host mom.  The market is open on Wednesday and Saturday mornings.  There are vendors of all sorts, yarn, shoes, jewelry, and lots and lots of food.  My host mom likes one grocer in particular, so we bought lots vegetables and fruits from his stall inside the covered portion of the market.  He was exceptionally friendly and spoke no English, but told me that he has family in New York.  Truly, he was so kind and gave us extra haricots verts and a container of lychees just for me.  The point was to prove that French markets are better than American ones, though he conceded that in the US we have better organic markets.  In terms of friendliness and generosity, he certainly proved his point.  My host parents joked that now if they want to go to the market they have to take me so that they can get a little extra for free.  I can't wait to go back next week.

gratuit lychees


Of course there is much more to share: experiences, anecdotes, foods and happenings, but for now...

à bientôt